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June 15 Bahamian Heritage44. Bahamian Heritage May 3, 2008
(See Photo Album Bahamian’s at their Heritage Festival, The Royal Bahamian Police Marching Band and Fire Dancing & Into the Night.)
New Plymouth, Green Turtle Cay, Abaco Island Roots Heritage Festival The Bahamas: The Jewel of the Crown
People came from all around. When we returned from a walk our path crossed a young woman hurrying down the road. We asked if she was late for work, she said, “No I have to catch to ferry! The Police Band is performing at 6:00! Aren’t you coming!?” We said we where going the next day as she ran on calling out to the ferry to “Wait!, Wait!” and calling back to her friends to “Hurry! Hurry!” The next morning leaving White Sound, we rounded the point to find over 25 cruising boats anchored outside of town where there had only been two the day before. Everyone was in high spirits! Teenagers and young adults were strutting like the roosters at the dump, families ambled through the festivities and grandmas sat in the shade watching over the babies. Bahamian woman come in two sizes: pencil thin and “Bahama Mama”. Either way they were dressed to impress! “Ya Mun!” There were activities and presentations all day long. Everything from a hoola-hoop contest for kids to a talk on bush medicine to a fashion show of Monarchs and Royal Subjects dressed in period costumes. Everything heated up when the Royal Bahamian Police Force Marching Band performed with choreographed dance moves and flying base-drums. The festival buzzed with excitement! “Did you see that?? There isn’t a marching band in the world that’s better!!” The whirl of activity continued through the Junkanoo Rush – a parade of locals in dazzling costumes that rivaled Mardi Gras! An amazing “Fire Show” was followed by some down home “Rake & Scrape” by the Gully Rooster and the Lassido Boys. “A good time was had by all” and an even better time by some as the dance area filled and the night went on… Our Vacation Island43. Our Vacation Island
Back & Forth between Green Turtle Cay and Munjack Cay from April 18 and May 16, 2008
(See Photo Album of the Same Name)
Most of you wouldn’t think we’d need a vacation from cruising, but the rigors of life aboard a boat do wear a bit from time to time. When we got to Munjack Cay, Abaco we felt like we were on vacation! The cay is only a few miles north of the popular Green Turtle Cay, but it feels quite remote. The bay is large and well protected, but less than an hour away from the all-round protection of White Sound. There are only a few dwellings on the cay, one of which is owned by former cruisers. We heard that when they were cruising they got tired of hearing people say, “No, that’s private property!” Because of this they generously welcome cruisers to their area. They have a lovely beach for us to leave our dinghy or gather for a bonfire. They have an internet antenna that provides us free internet in one of the cay’s four anchorages. Best yet is that they have riddled the island with hiking trails that take us all over the cay. Our days here are truly relaxing! We read books, enjoy conversation over morning coffee or an evening cocktail and hike. Almost every day we traverse the cay to the Atlantic. The trail winds through lush bush on the verge of bursting into spring. Birds serenade us down the path as curly-tale lizards dart from beneath our next step. The Atlantic beach is expansive – a walk north to the end of the island and back is a nice three hour jaunt. Depending on the wind direction the barrier reefs either warn us to stay away with crashing waves or tempt us with cool calm water and the lure of fresh fish for dinner. Onboard, we even tackled a few boat projects and some “fun” endeavors like making conch horns and sorting treasures from the sea. Internet has allowed us the luxury of e-mailing family & friends along with following weather patterns as we prepare to return to the US before the end of May.
May 02 "A Black Tie Affair??"42. “A Black Tie Affair??” April 17-18, 2008 (See Photo Album of the Same Name.)
Birthdays are the perfect excuse to indulge, so we ignored the events of the recent blow and the fact that Keith and Joanie would be leaving for the States and celebrated Joanie’s upcoming birthday. I asked Joanie to wear a dress and told her that Keith had been given instructions – I peaked her curiosity. Joanie joined me down below and when the guys came in they were wearing palm frond ties with shorts – no shirts. Joanie gave us the reaction we were hoping for with her beaming smile. We enjoyed champagne, dinner and even dessert. Joanie delighted in her new conch horn among other home-made gifts. Over dinner we reminisced over the journey we’ve shared together. Our acquaintance started at Pike’s Bay Marina where we cordially greeted each other at marina gatherings. We left knowing that they would be cruising in the Bahamas and hoped that our paths would cross. Our routes intersected in Charleston, SC in mid-November. What we didn’t know was that we would travel together excluding a week or two here and there for five months. In that expanse of time our friendship grew and developed into one that will last a lifetime. Our companionship enriched our journey and enhances all of our experiences from exploring daily destinations along with the joys and challenges of cruising to wonderful meals shared on each others boats to conversations about life philosophies, believes and dreams. A greater gift we could not have wished for… The next morning we waved goodbye as they set sail for home. They crossed the Gulf Stream safely to Port Canaveral and are working their way up the Coast to the Chesapeake where they will leave Pelican to return to Minnesota for the summer. Joanie kept a wonderful blog of their journey: www.pelicanposts.blogspot.com.
Pandemonium41. Pandemonium April 14 – 16, 2008 (See Photo Album of the Same Name.)
2:30 am the wind came up and howled so loud you’d have thought it was a full moon! *** White Sound although protected from all wind directions is small – only a quarter of a mile wide and a third of a mile long. To complicate matters, mooring balls are prevalent yet there is plenty of room for boats to anchor amongst the moorings.*** Shouts rang out over the screech of the wind, air horns sounded, spot lights flashed and boats began to move. Pandemonium broke out. The boat next to us dragged and almost ran into the moored boat behind them. They pulled up their anchor and tried to reset it. They circled ‘round us too close for comfort finally leaving our immediate area for better holding. In the darkness boats where swarming everywhere, some with their running light on to show that they were underway, but others only with their anchor lights showing. We could see their attempts to anchor and re-anchor until they finally found security until day break. The wind blew endlessly, but it seemed that things were settling down when trouble struck close to home. Our friends Keith and Joanie on SV Pelican had a Moorings’ catamaran from the local charter company anchor too close to them the day before and the consequences of this unfolded before our eyes. The cat’s anchor dragged and they backed within hands reach of Keith on Pelican’s bow. (Why they didn’t power forward we don’t know.) The horror reached us when Keith’s voice carried over the cry of the wind, “You’ve got our ANCHOR!!!” Helplessly we stood on our deck as the surreal scene unfolded. The cat pulled Pelican’s anchor free catapulting them into the catamaran. Tangled side by side they careened through the anchorage. Keith & Joanie pleaded with them to put down their anchor, but they didn’t. Pelican narrowly missed several boats only to be T-boned into the bowsprit of a large vessel by the catamaran!! Keith totally released their anchor and chain from their boat to finally free them from their captor. The catamaran drove off and re-anchored leaving them entangled on the other boat (Samaria II). Unfortunately, Samaria II’s anchor chain & snubber were fouled on Pelican’s rudder. The silver lining was that both boats were secure on Samaria II’s anchor (a 60 lb CQR) until they could be separated at dawn. The blessing was that no one was injured. White Sound was full of eyes on anchor watch peering into the blackness listening for the wind to abate. Morning brought little decline in the wind, but before sunrise boats were moving to find more secure locations, many flocking to the local marinas. The VHF radio buzzed with stories, but it wasn’t over yet. Claus and another Wisconsin cruiser joined in to help liberate Pelican from Samaria II and retrieve Pelican’s anchor from the bottom of the sound. In the middle of this process another boat skated by with no one at the helm. Claus, Barry & Keith put their endeavor on hold to rescue the runaway that would soon ground itself on the rocky shore. Sleepy people appear on deck as their boat was being pushed by dinghies out of danger! (Their mooring line had chaffed through setting their boat adrift.) Back at their own task, Pelican was finally freed. She sustained extensive superficial damage that will be a royal hassle to have repaired. To add insult to injury the charterer of the catamaran tried to deflect responsibility of the incident onto anyone but himself setting a harbour full of cruisers into an incensed uproar. Moorings’ handled the situation professionally and made assurances that the repairs will be covered. The night’s wind topped out at 45 knots (over 50 mph for land-lubbers) with sustained winds of 30-35 knots; the forecast called for more of the same. Next stop, the dock for camaraderie and a good night’s sleep.
Across the Whale40. Across the Whale April 4 – 13, 2008 (See Photo Album of the Same Name.)
“The Whale” is a treacherous cut that must be traversed to explore the northern most cays of the Abacos. It is open to the oceans swell and waves. Many of the cuts in the Abacos are know to “rage”, but the Whale, like Moby Dick, has been known to eat boats and spit them back out. We took heed of advice from fellow cruisers and waited patiently in Marsh Harbour with the “city sounds” of barking dogs, car horns and late night party music. Marsh has two wonderful assets: great provisioning and the best holding of super muck that sucked our anchor in so deep that it pulled Kyanna’s proud bow down when we left to cross the Whale. Our passage was calm by any standard with only 3-4 foot ocean swells. On the other side we found Green Turtle Cay with its delightful New Plymouth Settlement. The historic streets overflow with charming wooden houses, some brightly painted and others showing the patina of time. Only a few miles away Munjack Cay offers a more remote experience with four quiet anchorages, long expanses of beach and hiking trails cut through the islands interior. We took advantage of it all before heading back to White Sound in Green Turtle Cay to avoid an approaching front.
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